‘Millets Are Good For The Planet, Farmer And Consumer’: Celebrated Chef Anahita Dhondy On The Power Of Grains

Back in 2015, when she started using grains in her kitchen, celebrated chef and sustainability advocate Anahita Dhondy knew it was something she wanted to talk about and promote. Post her first book The Parsi Kitchen which was all about community and celebrating childhood memories, she is back with a new book – The Grain Kitchen. “Understanding and incorporating a wider variety of grains into our meals, I’ve seen the difference not only in my own life but across my family as well. A balanced plate with diverse grains keeps you fuller for longer. It truly does wonders, and it will not make you feel as gassy or bloated as you would probably with gluten. But it's important to make these changes slowly and thoughtfully, giving your body time to adapt,” she says.

Excerpts from the interview:

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When did you discover the power of grains?

I discovered the power of grains while I was studying and I discovered the power of millets when I was working at SodaBottleOpenerWala, around 2014-15, when I started experimenting with different ingredients. I knew that this was something that I wanted to cook with and popularise. I felt they didn't get enough attention, even though they were absolutely fantastic on the plate, from the kind of nutrition that they offered to their versatility and texture. They were also locally grown, so for me, the mission became getting more people to eat more grains in different ways.

Millet Dishes

In 2018, you also spoke about millets at the United Nations. Now everyone seems to be talking about them. Do you think grains such as millets are finally being given their due credit now?

At many international and national conferences, I've cooked with and spoken about millets, bringing them to the forefront, because I always knew these grains had enormous potential. They come from India, they're good for the planet, good for the farmer, and good for the consumer. I was really happy when 2023 was declared the year of the millet by the FAO. They truly complete the circle - they're sustainable, nutritious, and absolutely delicious.

I do feel events and festivals like these really help bring grains to the forefront. I'm also proud of the work we've been doing. If you check online, you'll find #MilletMonday, where we've around 100 recipes to encourage people to cook with grains.

While researching these grains, were there a lot of surprising facts that came out for you as well?

Every time I learn about a different millet—because there are eight or nine different types—I'm fascinated. Then there are pseudograins and many other grains as well. What fascinates me isn't just their texture, but also how they're grown, whether they're husked or unhusked, and how they're cooked and prepared. They're incredibly versatile. You can use them as flour or cook them like rice, and they're a wonderful addition to everyday recipes.

Corn

You haven’t limited the recipes to only Indian but have also included some international ones…

I wanted this book to be one that people would return to again and again, to create dishes that are Indian and international, simple and approachable, with a few recipes that are a little more technical. Ultimately, I wanted people to cook delicious food at home and use grains in different ways.

Today's audience is well-travelled. They know what they're eating and enjoy exploring different cuisines. That's why the book includes both Indian and international recipes.

Ney pathiri with mutton

Do you think some grains have become more popular while others seem to have been ignored and lost?

Honestly, I think the marketing around quinoa has been very strong, and the same goes for avocados, although they're not grains. We've done a lot of work to promote millets, myself included, but there's still a long way to go.

Millets are indigenous to India, and it will take some time, but it's important that we continue to celebrate them. Wheat and rice have naturally taken centre stage for generations and there's nothing wrong with that. But introducing another grain into your diet takes time, which is why I always recommend starting slowly.

There are a lot of misconceptions regarding grains, and some people are also unsure about how to use them in their daily lives. Why do you think that narrative has been built over the years?

With grains, it's all about trial and error. The first time you cook rice, it may not turn out perfectly fluffy, but over time you'll learn things like how much starch to wash away and how long you need to boil it. The same goes for millets, oats, corn and barley.

As you experiment, you'll discover just how versatile these grains are. In The Grain Kitchen, I've tried to simplify that journey and show readers how easily grains can become part of everyday cooking. One common misconception is that grains will make you fat because they're carbohydrate-heavy. But grains are an essential part of a balanced plate. The key is choosing a variety of grains and incorporating them thoughtfully into your diet.

Gluten Free Vannila Sponge Cake

What do you hope is the takeaway for the reader?

I hope The Grain Kitchen encourages more people to discover different grains, learn how to cook with them and include them in their everyday diets. I know this is a long-term journey. It may not resonate with everyone today, but I genuinely believe that ten years from now, people will have a much more diverse palate. My goal is simply to help people discover and enjoy these delicious grains.

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